FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

The best way to flush cooler lines and coolers is with a cooler flush machine. These machines are designed to run hot ATF through the cooler, switch directions quickly to loosen any debris, and carry it to a filter. The better machines have screens to detect how much debris has been removed.
Another feature is the pressure. If it’s too high or restricted, then the machine will shut off. We strongly recommend the hot flush machine for all shops. Ultimately, it is a come-back saver!

Most converters, when installed, usually sit behind the bell housing. Sometimes, you can use the three click method as your spinning the t/c: one click is the input shaft, the next click is the stator, and the last click is the pump drive gear.
If you have an open bell housing, you can stick your hand between the tc and the pump — your fingers should not fit.
Once you feel the t/c is engaged all the way, the true test is the bolt-up to the engine. Before hanging the transmission, check to see if the dowel pins are sticking out of the engine block. They will help you verify that the engine-to-trans-angle is proper. So look for the dowel pins to ensure they are sticking through the transmission. Once this is set, even before you put that first bell bolt in, you must verify t/c movement. As you begin tightening each bell bolt, you should be verifying t/c movement again and again.
Transmission-to-engine-block alignment is critical to ensure proper installation and is a common cause of front pump seal leaks and pump failure. Remember, you are always checking t/c movement through this entire process.

The road test starts with a scan tool on the vehicle. Watch all parameters while driving.
Do an engagement test, drive then reverse. Are they sharp and not harsh? Do this in the beginning of the test and throughout the test.
Next is the shifting. You want light throttle shifts, medium, and wide open throttle shifts. Do these shifts feel normal in all ranges? At a traffic light, check engagements again.
You must also verify lock-up is working. Sometimes this requires you to be on the highway with a scan tool to verify. Some lock-up systems are very soft and the only way to determine if lock-up is working properly is with a scan tool. This will also verify if any codes are set.

The exact procedure to fill and check transmission fluid levels are different and vary widely depending on the transmission type. If the tech is unsure, consult our tech department by calling 1-855-GPS-TRAN toll free.
NOTE: Most Hondas require the engine off for a transmission level check.
Some units are filled through the pan with a pump. Others are filled through access holes. Some techs will fill through a speed sensor hole as opposed to the “pump through the pan” method.
The most important step is to start with five or six quarts before you start the engine, keep at idle, and quickly get the remaining transmission fluid in the system. Remember, most remanufactured units already have a couple of quarts remaining from the dyno testing at the factory.

The most important item to verify is there are no codes in the system, engine and/or transmission. Many engine codes affect the way the transmission functions. Remember, the transmission can only function as well as the engine performs.
Perform a lift check, ensure there are no leaks, all bolts are tightened, all clips are present and in place, and all pieces are put back the EXACT way they came off the vehicle to ensure a quality, professional installation.
Finally, verify the transmission fluid level is full.